Idyllic to say the least!
As soon as you step off the boat, you are “hit” by the archipelago idyll on Tjockö. The view over Rovholmen is almost like a glorification of the archipelago – just as postcards can be. But here it is in 3D and you can not put a stamp on it. Tjockö is one of the few islands in the archipelago that retains much of its old character and a day here is a day in the spirit of peace and quiet.
On Tjockö in Stockholm’s northern archipelago, there are no special attractions – except for the idyll itself. A walk on this 5 km long and about 2 km wide island is done for the sake of tranquility. Slowly walk around, take a dip at Tunnholmen, sit by the steamboat pier and watch the boats pass. On Tjockö there is mainly one road, rurally narrow and gravel paved and used by the island’s quad bikes and golf carts. The road goes from the steamboat pier through the village and further down to Österäng with a detour at the grocery store to the island’s jointly owned laundry.
From the main road, there are lots of small roads that in almost all cases lead to a property and end there. There are no circular loops or particularly excellent trails here – if you walk a road, you will eventually have to turn around and walk back. On some maps there are a few paths but after the storm Alfrida in 2019 you should follow them with caution – first of all they are not marked at all and in addition the forest is full of fallen trees which makes the paths difficult to access. I tried in June 2020 and recommend staying away from them. However, you get a little hungry to go back in the autumn and pick berries…
There are of course exceptions – at Rovholmen there is a short loop (1.2 km) through Högholmen with forest, overgrown meadows and only a few visible houses. On the way from Rovholmen to the island’s only shop, you will see a dilapidated barn on the left side. Turn off onto the quad bike road that will go on the edge of some plots before the forest takes over. After about 100 meters – at the last house on the right side – a long paved bridge can be seen. Make a detour down over it and take in the gorgeous view of the bay – picture perfect! Return and continue on the unmarked but fairly clear loop and enjoy the tranquility, the smell of ramsons and the beautiful, old forest. The loop will end on the main road and you can walk down to Österäng or turn back towards Rovholmen and the island’s center.
I stayed a few nights on Tjockö but since there is no hostel or hotel there you need a tent or a hammock. On Tunnholmen, near Tjockö lighthouse, there is a nice open area for tents with a shallow sandy beach and a fireplace. Around the lighthouse there are also nice trees for hammocks and a night’s sleep with a clear view over Tjocköfjärden and the sunset – pure magic! From Rovholmen where the speedboat stops, it is 2.3 km, so you can easily get there even with packing.
In summer, Öbutiken is open every day and right next to it is Ökrogen (check opening hours on tjocko.se if you plan to eat there). Fresh and cold water is in a tap on a small house by Bygården, which is also right next to Öbutiken.